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Chain Link Fence Calculator — Posts, Rail and Fabric

Chain Link Fence Calculator — Posts, Rail and Fabric

Chain link is cheap until you get to the fittings, and the fittings are what everyone under-orders. Enter the run and this lists every part, including the ties and bands that are easy to forget.

ft

All runs added together, not counting gate openings.

no.

Every change of direction needs a terminal post.

no.

Where the fence stops without turning. A fence returning to a building has one end.

no.

Each opening needs two posts and two tension bars.

ft

Fabric height. Posts are longer — see the note on depth below.

Line posts posts
Terminal posts posts
Post length needed ft
Fabric 50 ft rolls
Top rail 21 ft pieces
Tension bars no.
Tension bands no.
Tie wires no.
Post caps no.
Concrete 80 lb bags

Estimates only. Check against your supplier's stated coverage before you buy.

Take this list to the store

We'll email the quantities above, what you typed in, and a link that reopens this calculator already filled in — so you can adjust it on your phone in the aisle.

We send the list you asked for. Anything else only if you tick the box, and you can unsubscribe in one click. What we do with it.

Line posts at 10 ft on centerCount is the run divided by the spacing, plus one for the last one.Line posts at 10 ft on center10 ft"top plateon center means center to center, not the gap between them.Count = width ÷ spacing, plus one for the last one.

How to work it out

  1. Mark the terminals first

    Every end, corner and gate post is a terminal post — heavier gauge, bigger hole, more concrete. They carry the tension of the fabric, so they go in first and the line posts get spaced out between them.

  2. Space the line posts

    Ten feet is the usual maximum and what most installers use. Go to eight on a windy site or anything over five feet tall. Divide each run by the spacing and round up — the leftover gap goes at the end, not in the middle.

  3. Buy posts longer than the fence

    A four foot fence does not use four foot posts. Add the hole depth: about a third of the fence height plus six inches, and never less than two feet. So a four foot fence wants six foot posts, and you set them two feet down.

  4. Order the fittings generously

    Ties, bands and bars are pennies each and they are what stops the job. Fabric comes in 50 ft rolls and can be cut; ties cannot be improvised. Buy ten per cent more of every small part than the list says.

Post length by fence height

Hole depth is roughly a third of the height plus six inches, minimum two feet.

Fence heightHole depthPost lengthConcrete per line post
3 ft2 ft5 ft0.7 cu ft
4 ft2 ft6 ft0.7 cu ft
5 ft2 ft 2 in.7 ft 2 in.0.8 cu ft
6 ft2 ft 6 in.8 ft 6 in.0.9 cu ft
8 ft3 ft 2 in.11 ft 2 in.1.1 cu ft

Terminal posts take a wider hole than line posts because they carry the fabric tension. Chain link line posts go deeper than the posts on a wood fence of the same height — they are thinner, so they rely on depth rather than bulk. Frost line wins over both figures wherever it is deeper.

Parts for a 100 ft fence

Four feet tall, 10 ft spacing, two ends, one gate, top rail.

PartQuantityNotes
Line posts9Between the terminals
Terminal posts4Two ends, two gate posts
Fabric2 rolls50 ft each
Top rail5 pieces21 ft each, sleeved together
Tension bars4One per terminal, two per gate
Tension bands12Roughly every 15 in. of height
Tie wires86Every 12 in. on posts, 24 in. on rail

The small parts outnumber everything else, and they are the ones people run out of.

Ten feet on center is the standard maximum and what most residential fences use. Tighten to eight feet if the fence is over five feet tall, if the site is exposed, or if you are running slats through the fabric — slats turn a fence into a sail.

Spacing does not have to be uniform, and trying to make it uniform is a common mistake. Set the terminals where the fence actually turns, then divide each run between them. A run that comes out at 9 ft 4 in. spacing is fine.

Line posts and terminal posts are not the same

Terminal posts — ends, corners and gates — take the pull of the stretched fabric. They are a heavier gauge and a larger diameter, they go in a wider hole with more concrete, and on a corner they often get a brace assembly as well.

Line posts only hold the fabric up. They are lighter, cheaper and go in smaller holes. Using line posts at the ends is the single most common way a chain link fence ends up leaning inward within a couple of years.

The fittings are the whole job

Fabric and posts are the obvious parts and the cheap ones. What actually takes the time is the tension bar threaded down each terminal end of the fabric, the bands that clamp it to the post, the caps, the sleeves joining the rail, and a tie wire every twelve inches up every line post.

A hundred foot fence needs the better part of ninety ties. They cost almost nothing and there is no substitute, so buy more than the list says.

Top rail or tension wire?

A rigid top rail makes a stiffer fence that resists being pushed on and looks more finished. It costs more and takes longer, because every length has to be sleeved into the next and threaded through the line post caps as you go.

A tension wire along the top is cheaper and quicker and is what you often see on longer agricultural runs. It holds the fabric but does nothing structurally, so the fence flexes when leant on.

Stretching the fabric

Chain link has to be pulled tight before it is tied off, and tight is tighter than most people expect — a come-along and a stretcher bar, not hands. Slack fabric sags into a wave within a season and cannot be fixed afterwards without undoing the run.

Stretch from terminal to terminal, tie off at the far end, then work back along the line posts. The diamonds should be visibly elongated while it is under tension.

How this is worked out

No black box — here is the arithmetic the calculator runs, so you can check it against your own numbers.

  1. terminal posts = corners + ends + (gates × 2) Every gate opening needs a post on each side.
  2. line posts = (length ÷ spacing) − 1 Terminals occupy the ends, so the line posts fall between them.
  3. post length = fence height + hole depth Hole depth is about a third of the height plus 6 in., minimum 2 ft.
  4. tension bands = tension bars × (height in. ÷ 15) Roughly one band every 15 in. up each terminal post.
  5. tie wires = line posts × (height in. ÷ 12) + (length in. ÷ 24) Every 12 in. up each line post, every 24 in. along the top rail.

Common questions

How far apart are chain link fence posts?

Ten feet on center at most, and that is what most residential fences use. Drop to eight feet for fences over five feet tall, exposed sites, or anywhere you are adding privacy slats.

How deep should chain link posts go?

About a third of the fence height plus six inches, and never less than two feet. A four foot fence goes two feet down; a six foot fence about thirty inches. In freezing climates the hole also has to reach below the frost line, which may be deeper than either figure.

What length posts do I need for a 4 ft fence?

Six foot posts, set two feet into the ground. Buying four foot posts for a four foot fence is a mistake that gets made surprisingly often.

How long is a roll of chain link fabric?

Fifty feet is the standard residential roll. It can be cut and rejoined by unwinding a single strand and weaving it back in, so you are not tied to multiples of fifty — but plan the runs so the joins land near a post.

Do I need a top rail?

Not structurally, but it makes a noticeably stiffer fence that stands up to being leant on and looks better finished. The cheaper alternative is a tension wire along the top, which holds the fabric but lets the fence flex.

How much concrete per fence post?

About 0.7 to 0.9 cubic feet for a line post in a typical hole, more for terminals because they take a wider one. That is roughly one to two 80 lb bags each. The post hole calculator works it out for any hole size.

Can I install chain link on a slope?

Yes — chain link follows ground contours better than any panel fence, which is one of its real advantages. The fabric racks to follow a gentle slope; for steeper ground you step it down at each post and the triangles at the bottom get filled or left.

What gauge fabric should I use?

Eleven or eleven-and-a-half gauge is typical residential. Nine gauge is heavier and noticeably stiffer, used for commercial and security work. The lower the number the thicker the wire, which is backwards from most things.

Where these figures come from

Every figure below is traceable. How we check the numbers explains how they are verified, and the coverage reference collects them all in one place.

  • Chain Link Fence Manufacturers Institute — post spacing, gauges and installation practice
  • Manufacturer product data — roll lengths, rail lengths and fitting counts
  • International Residential Code, Appendix — pool barrier requirements where they apply

Think a number here is wrong? Tell us — we check every report, correct the page, and date the change. Last checked September 15, 2026.